Athens Review, Athens, Texas

Opinion

August 16, 2010

'Pulled pork' sandwiches are a tradition

CNHI News Service — One of the most traditional barbecue food experiences is a simple “pulled pork” sandwich. It is also a food that is seldom attempted by home barbecuers because of the “mystery”

behind its overall preparation.

Many people believe you need a BBQ pit or a smoker, when in truth all you need is a kettle grill, some patience and time, hickory wood or hickory chips and the proper cut of

pork.

Traditional pulled pork barbecue is sometimes made from a whole pig, but on a smaller scale is made with a Boston Butt.

Why the name “Boston Butt?” It is said that in pre-Revolutionary War New England, some less desirable pork cuts were packed into casks or barrels (also known as "butts") for storage and shipment. Couple that with the way the hog shoulder was cut in the Boston area and you have the Boston Butt.

A typical Boston Butt is typically 5 to 6 pounds, and is a cut of pork that needs to be cooked (or barbecued in this case) low and slow for 7 to 9 hours, depending on the cooking temperature.

The ideal barbecuing temperature is between 250 and 275 degrees Fahrenheit. This will result in a tender cut of pork where the meat can be literally pulled off, hence the name “pulled pork.”

Grill Setup

The setup of your kettle grill is a technique called “indirect heat." This is where charcoal is piled on both sides of the grill, no more then 10 briquettes on each side. In the middle of the grill there is either nothing, or some people place a disposable aluminum casserole container with water.

Light both piles and let the briquets turn 60 percent gray. I have a video that shows this technique, which you can see at

my website, www.BBQMyWay.com.

While you are waiting for the charcoal to heat, prepare the Boston Butt for the grill.

Boston Butt Preparation

This part is easy. Let the meat come to room temperature and apply your favorite pork rub liberally. A good rub will be a combination of sweetness and heat, and will result in the delicious “bark” that becomes caramelized and darkened during the barbecue process.

There are a lot of great rubs available commercially, or you can make your own. Personally, I think Fuzzy's Pork Rub is absolutely the best, and that is what I use when making pulled pork.

Cooking Time

This varies depending on how hot your fire is.

Place your butt on the middle of the grill -- I know, quit laughing -- where there is no direct heat. Sprinkle some hickory chips on both sides of the fire, or place a small chunk of hickory on the fire. Let it burn off a little.

Most people mistakenly believe it is the smoke that adds the flavor. That is false. The smokey flavor is imparted by the hickory AFTER the hickory has cooked down to charcoal.

Once the hickory has cooked down, add a couple of additional briquettes to each side, and place the lid on the grill with all vents open 75 percent. Check the charcoal every hour or so. More than likely you will add three to four briquets to each side of the fire once every hour or so.

Also, don't forget to add hickory now and again.

Resist the urge to open the grill unless you are adding additional briquettes. Each time you open the grill you are disturbing the barbecuing process by letting all the heat out.

This technique does take practice. A typical mistake by first-timers is to make the fire too hot, which speeds the cooking process, which is not good.

If you can keep the internal temperature of the grill between 250 and 275 degrees Fahrenheit, you are on your way to delicious and authentic pulled pork BBQ sandwiches that will make you the most popular BBQ'er in your neighborhood.

Condiments

The traditional pulled pork sandwich is served with a vinegar-based cole slaw placed directly on the sandwich. While the pork is cooking you can assemble the cole slaw, which is a simple recipe. This does work better if allowed to rest in the fridge for 24 hours.

Ingredients:

1 ½ pounds cabbage

½ red pepper

½ green pepper

¼ tablespoon celery seed

½ cup vinegar

1/3 cup sugar

Salt to taste

Preparation:

Heat sugar and vinegar until sugar dissolves. Let the mixture get cold, preferably by refrigeration.

Grate cabbage, add celery seed, salt and finely cut peppers. Mix and pour cold mixture over cabbage.

Thoroughly mix all ingredients and put in glass containers. Store in refrigerator. Let sit a minimum of 24 hours before serving.

Sandwich Assembly

The traditional way of serving pulled pork sandwiches is simple and delicious. Once you have determined the pork is done (remember, the bone should easily be pulled out and the meat can be pulled apart with very little effort) place it in a large container. Grab two forks and simply start pulling it apart. It's that easy.

Pile a helping of the pulled pork on a basic white sandwich bun, add your favorite sauce if you feel it is necessary, and top it off with the cole slaw.

You will experience one of the great staples of southern barbecue tradition.

Dave Lobeck is a barbecue chef from Sellersburg, Ind., who writes a weekly column for CNHI News Service. Contact him at www.BBQMyWay.com.

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