Rick Hirsch
The Athens Review
— February is here and it is time to get busy, for fruit growers that is, pruning fruit trees in East Texas. Hopefully, the coldest part of winter is over, and the trees will soon be growing and healing pruning injuries.
Pruning fruit trees can be beneficial in several ways. Some of the advantages include: improving tree health by removing dead, injured or diseased limbs, improving ease of harvesting by shaping and reducing tree height and increasing flower production on trees such as peaches that bloom on new growth. It also improves fruit quality by allowing more light penetration, which improves fruit color and by thinning the fruit crop which improves fruit size and sugar content.
I recommend lopping shears as a basic tool. They can cut wood from a quarter inch to one and a half inches diameter. The long handles enable someone standing on the ground to prune limbs up to an 8-foot height. The long handles also allow extra leverage when cutting larger limbs. Frequently no other equipment is needed.
You may also want to get some hand pruners because they are very useful on small plants or when a lot of small limbs less than a half inch in diameter must be cut. The short handles give more control when doing detailed pruning. A pruning saw is needed for pruning limbs too large for the lopping shears.
The first step in pruning is to remove any dead, broken or diseases branches.
Branches should be cut back to the connection to another branch. There is generally a ridge or arena of wrinkled wood around the base of the branch. This is called the branch collar. The collar has the ability to heal nearby wounds and should not be cut. The limb should be cut just outside the collar. The branch collar will then quickly grow over the cut surface. Do not leave a stub sticking out of the collar. The collar will not be able to grow over the cut surface, and the stub frequently will die. This will sometimes lead to a hollow in the tree.
Next, remove branches that grow toward the center of the tree. These branches will often cross other limbs and cause rubbing injury. These limbs also will prevent light penetration and air circulation, which reduce fruit coloring and encourage diseases. Limbs of equal size that form a sharp V will tend to split apart. One of the limbs should be removed before the limbs get very large.
Limb growth can be directed by pruning back to a bud or shoot that is pointing toward the direction that growth is desired. This procedure allows the tree to be shaped or to fill in gaps in the tree structure.
Different methods of pruning are used on different fruit species. Peach, nectarine and Japanese plums produce fruit on one-year-old wood. Because pruning stimulates growth, it is the best means available to assure an annual supply of this essential fruiting wood. Japanese plums also produce fruit on spurs and should not be pruned as much as peaches.
Peaches and nectarines are typically pruned to a three-limb open center form. This method allows sunlight into the tree and enables the fruit to develop proper color. The upper shoots can be tipped to keep trees low enough that the fruit can be harvested without the aid of ladders. Failure to control tree height will cause the lower branches to be shaded out and the fruiting wood to be too high to harvest without ladders.
Apple and pear trees produce fruit on short spurs that last 10 to 15 years. Excessive pruning will remove the fruiting spurs and reduce crop size. It will also cause excessive non-spur producing wood to be produced, which is non-productive. Apple and pear trees are normally trained to a central leader or modified central leader system. Pruning basically consists of thinning out thick areas and removing weak or damaged wood. Excessive pruning can make the trees prone to the fire blight disease.
Figs produce fruit on current season wood, although some varieties will produce an early crop on previous season’s growth. Figs do not need heavy pruning to produce fruiting wood. Pruning consists primarily of removing inward growth when necessary to keep the tree open. Dead, diseased or damaged wood along with suckers and water sprouts should be removed.
Wood ashes good for garden:
Wood ashes from fireplaces are a good soil amendment. Excessive amounts, however, can be detrimental. Wood ashes are highly alkaline and high in potassium, calcium and magnesium. Numerous other elements are also present, but in much lower amounts. Essentially no nitrogen is present because it vaporizes during the burning process.
If ashes are spread on garden soil, a general rule of thumb is to apply 5 gallons per 1,000 sq. ft. Flower beds should receive half that much. To be safe, make only one application per year. Excessive amounts may make the soil too alkaline and thus inhibit crops from assimilating certain key elements. Should your soil have a high pH like seven or so, don’t use wood ashes.
The bottom line is that wood ashes are in general good to put on Henderson County vegetable garden soils. Just remember not to get carried away and apply too much.
Important dates:
Feb. 16 — East Texas Commercial Fruit and Vegetable Conference at Rose Garden Center, Tyler at 8 a.m. The cost is $25 per person - 3 C. E. U.’s.
Question of the week:
Q. How do I select good transplants at nurseries or garden centers?
A. First, select the right variety of transplants whether it be tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or broccoli. Also look for plants that appear healthy, dark green in color and do not have any spots or holes in the leaves. The ideal tomato, pepper or eggplant transplant should be just about as wide as it is tall. Avoid tall, spindly plants.
Rick Hirsch is the Henderson County Extension Agent - Agriculture for Texas AgriLife Extension Service. Visit our web page at http://henderson-co.tamu.edu.
